Chain link is one of the most DIY-friendly fence types. With basic tools and a helper, you can install a sturdy chain link fence in a weekend.
Why Chain Link Is DIY-Friendly
Chain link materials are standardized and widely available. You don't need carpentry skills—mostly digging, setting posts, and unrolling mesh. The main challenge is keeping posts plumb and stretching the mesh taut. Use our fence cost calculator to estimate materials. For material choices, see our chain link fence options guide.
Tools You Need
- Post hole digger or auger
- Level, tape measure, string line
- Wrench set (for post hardware)
- Fence puller / come-along (for tensioning mesh)
- Wire cutters or bolt cutters
- Shovel, wheelbarrow, concrete
Materials Checklist
| Item | Notes |
|---|---|
| Terminal posts | Ends, corners, gate sides—set in concrete |
| Line posts | Between terminals; typically 8–10 ft apart |
| Top rail | Runs through line posts; adds rigidity |
| Chain link mesh | Rolls; height and gauge vary |
| Tension bars, bands, tie wires | Attach mesh to posts |
Layout and Post Spacing
Mark the fence line with stakes and string. Fence post spacing for chain link is usually 8–10 feet for line posts. Terminal posts go at corners, ends, and both sides of gates. Plan gate locations before ordering—see fence gate installation for sizing. Check permit requirements and call 811 for utilities.
Step 1: Set Terminal Posts First
Dig holes for corner and end posts. Holes should go below the frost line—typically 24–30 inches deep for a 4-foot fence. Use concrete for terminal posts; they carry the tension. Let concrete cure 24–48 hours.
Step 2: Set Line Posts
Dig holes for line posts at 8–10 foot intervals. Concrete is optional for line posts in some setups, but it helps in loose soil. Ensure all posts are plumb and at consistent height.
Step 3: Install Top Rail
Run the top rail through the line post eyes. Join sections with rail end cups. The rail keeps the fence line straight and supports the mesh.
Step 4: Unroll and Attach Mesh
Start at a terminal post. Thread a tension bar through the first row of mesh diamonds and attach it to the post with bands and hardware. Unroll the mesh along the run. Use a fence puller (come-along) to stretch it taut before attaching to the far terminal. Tie the mesh to the top rail and line posts with tie wires every 12–18 inches.
Step 5: Add Gate (If Applicable)
Gate posts must be set correctly for the gate width. Install the gate frame, mesh, and hardware per the gate kit instructions.
Common Mistakes
- Setting terminal posts shallow—they'll pull out under tension
- Not stretching mesh enough—it will sag
- Wrong post spacing—mesh rolls come in standard lengths
- Forgetting to tie mesh to the top rail
FAQs
How far apart should chain link posts be?
Line posts: 8–10 feet. Terminal posts at every corner, end, and gate.
Do chain link posts need concrete?
Terminal posts should be set in concrete. Line posts can sometimes use gravel, but concrete is more secure.
How do you stretch chain link fence tight?
Use a fence puller (come-along) attached to the tension bar and the terminal post. Pull until the mesh is taut, then secure the tension bar to the post.
How long does DIY chain link installation take?
For 100 feet with a helper: 1–2 days. Terminal and line post setting takes the most time.